"I've been doing some thinking and I think I want to buy another Rottweiler, "...a pause as she catches her breath. She seems nervous and possibly even a little scared. "We don't know any breeders I would trust. We bought a female puppy about a year ago...paid fifteen hundred dollars for her. We really loved her. She was so good around the kids..." She pauses again and begins to cry. "Her hips were so bad we had to have her put to sleep." She continues to cry. The conversation stops for a few seconds. I can tell she's looking for relief. I begin what is the third such conversation of this day, the first one involving hips. The other two involved bad temperaments. The end results were the same...all three dogs were put to sleep.
I begin what I sincerely hope any responsible breeder would do and try to help her. "Have you contacted the breeder of your puppy about your problem?" I inquired.
"Yes, she told me that that's one of the chances you take when you buy a puppy."
"I see...so you bought a puppy for fifteen hundred dollars and received no contract, no guarantee, nothing."
"Yes. But she seemed so nice. And little 'Lacey' was such a special puppy. She gave us so much love." She stopped. Now she's really crying. "The kids loved her so much. God, it was so sad..."
"I'm really sorry. I know the feelings you're experiencing. Believe me, I know. I know only too well. I had my first Rottweiler in 1971. Back then there were only four ads in Dog World. The breeder was a feisty old guy. He made us get letters from our vet...and my parents. I was a senior in high school, mowed lawns all summer for that dog. I didn't know anything about pedigrees, the dogs, nothing. Back then you didn't have to. There were few breeders and fewer still puppies available. That was some dog. He was my best friend for many years. That's precisely why I care so much about the breed. I feel almost like I owe it to him for giving me so much joy.
"When he died Eve and I decided we needed another one. I got the books on American Rottweilers, several months of Dog World, and began my search. This time I found page after page of Rottweiler ads. How do you choose one in all the ads? I looked through the books of kennels that produced the most champions, called one up and bought a male. Several months later, he was found to be dysplastic. Out the window went thirty-five hundred dollars. Even though we had a written contract, this breeder was so unethical I never even considered giving the dog back to her. She would have just ended up taking advantage of someone else. I sold the dog myself to a good home. Then we bought a female at about one year of age. She failed OFA..."
"What's OFA?", she asks, interrupting.
"Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. They evaluate hips of several breeds as a basis for breeding. Anyway, I put deposits down on litters that were born, then sold to other people but no puppy for me. Then after selling the whole litter of puppies the person had the nerve to tell me it would be another six months before I got my deposit back. She was another well-known breeder of American champions. Then I got lucky. Through one of these sour deals I ended up meeting an honest man, one who turned our luck around. He took us to Germany and helped us buy dogs from reputable kennels. I owe everything - at least with the dogs - to him. One hell of a guy! But I lost a great deal of money, time and trust along the way. I'm telling you. I've been in the nursery business for over twelve years now and we've never had a claim with the Better Business Bureau. But with dogs...You better watch out. You better go into the deal with both eyes open and your feet firmly planted on the ground.
"You know, I just went through the March 1989 issue of Dog World magazine and found twenty-eight percent of the ads on Rottweilers had false and misleading statements in them - Twenty-eight Percent! And that's only in the ads I could check. See, any dog from Germany has a history in the ADRK, the German Rottweiler Club. When he was born, how many were in the litter. His hip rating and those of his litter-mates and his ancestors, whether or not he passed his Breed Suitability Test..."
"Excuse me, what's that?"
"In Germany all dogs must pass a Breed Suitability Test before they can be bred. PERIOD! If they do not pass the test, then they cannot be bred. This is a test whereby the males when they are twenty-four months old - females can be twenty months old - must go for a public examination. Their hips must have already been evaluated by two licensed radiologists approved by the ADRK. Then their conformation is measured against the German Standard, not the American one..."
"What's the difference?"
"Well, unfortunately the American Standard is very different from the German one. Why? I really don't know. Almost every country in the world accepts the country of origin of the dog as the standard for the dog, but not America. The major differences in terms of the Standard are that in America the dog can have four or more missing teeth and still become a champion. In Germany no missing teeth are allowed. In America light eyes are allowed whereas the eyes must be dark in Germany. Mouth pigment is another important area of difference. In Germany the mouth must be dark. In America I have seen flaming pink mouths walk away with championships.
"The German Standard is much more strict. It is designed for breedworthiness because each of the faults I mentioned, light eyes, pink mouth, and missing teeth are all hereditary faults. They will be passed on to the generations to come. If we are truly trying to Better the Breed, how can we do this and breed dogs with obvious hereditary faults? That is the question I ask many of my breeder friends. We do not breed any dogs that do not meet the German Standard...under any conditions.
"So, with the Breed Suitability Test the dog is critiqued according to the German Standard. He is weighed, measured in various areas. His eye shape and color are compared to an eye chart. Then his temperament is tested. He must not be aggressive around people. He is walked into a group of people and told to sit. The judge comes into the group and examines the dog's behavior. Then his courage is tested. He must defend his owner while receiving two controlled stick hits. Then his courage is tested again but this time he is tested away from his owner. This is a true measure of the dog's temperament. And, from what I've learned about Rottweilers, I would only buy one from parents that meet at lest the German Standard, have OFA rated hips or a HD- hip rating from Germany, and either have passed a Breed Suitability Test, obtained an advanced working title such as Schutzhund I or CDX, or passed a Temperament Test. This would be the very least requirements that I would accept from a puppy's parents."
"Okay, I think I'm beginning to understand now. Do you have any puppies for sale?"
"Well, we don't really sell puppies over the telephone. We would need to get to know each other a lot better. What I can do is send you some information with pedigrees, photographs, conformation show critiques proving that the dogs placed at certain shows, copies of their schutzhund trial reports, Breed Suitability Tests, advanced Breed Suitability Tests called KORUNGS, and, if it's a repeat breeding, photos from the last litter. And, last but not least, a copy of our contract spelling out everything we guarantee and also everything we expect of you. I will also send you the names of some people who have bought puppies from us so you can see how we are to deal with. I would warn you that you will probably have to be put on a waiting list for some litters so you will not be getting a puppy next week. I will also be sending you out a questionnaire to fill out for us. I need to know more about you, your family, what you want and expect in your puppy. Do you want it for showing or working? Is breeding in your future? And I do need to get a letter from your vet.
"In the meantime I would certainly suggest that you contact other breeders and ask them to send you information on their breeding program, puppies for sale, contract and guarantee that they offer. And, if you get serious about buying a dog from them, get a list of their previous customers and give them a call. Learn as much about the breeder as you possibly can. Remember, it may take several months to find a good puppy, but it will be living with you hopefully for the next twelve years."
"Thank you so much for all your help. I've learned a lot. I wish I had talked to you before I bought..."
"I think we all wish things like that. Please understand. None of this information is coming just from me. It's coming from researching about dogs and good and bad experiences. I got most of this information from other Rottweiler friends. I just hope you will learn from it and pass it on to your friends.
"That's the only hope we have of saving this breed."
Blog Mundimascota Ireland
Wednesday, 16 February 2022
Tuesday, 9 September 2014
Orgin of the Giant Schnauzer
The Pinscher-Schnauzer-Klub is the German registry for the pinscher breeds. All of these breeds are related and came from common ancestors. There are other pinscher breeds in other countries -- e.g.. Austrian Pinscher -- but these are not PSK breeds. All the breeds originated from medium-sized active dogs of general spitz type in the middle ages, and early on came in rough and smooth-coated versions. The breeds were standardized in the mid-19th century. Even then, smooth and rough pinschers would occur in the same litter but eventually separated into Pinscher and Schnauzer breeds. The Schnauzer was known alternatively as Wire-haired Pinscher well into the beginning of the 20th century. Smaller versions of the rough-haired pinschers developed into the Affenpinscher with some probable crosses with toy breeds, and the Miniature Schnauzer from smaller schnauzers (American texts say crossed with Affens, but German texts say both small breeds developed independently). The history of the Giant is not clear -- it was the breed of the Bavarian royalty and apparently large schnauzers appeared in portraits of dukes etc. in the late 19th century. Werner Jung, the guru of the PSK in the mid-20th century, writes that perfectly former Giant Schnauzers appeared at dog shows around the turn of the century and essentially blew everyone away. Their development was apparently somewhat "behind closed doors" but obviously medium schnauzers plus probable crosses to larger herding breeds or even black Deutsche Dogge (Great Dane) were made. The smooth pinschers developed into Miniature Pinschers and German or Standard Pinschers. The latter had salt and pepper individuals until about WW II, but that variety is now extinct. The GP itself almost went extinct after WWII but Jung and others went around to villages and found excellent albeit unregistered specimens to breed to the few registered dogs to revive the breed. Supposedly Louis Dobermann used a smooth pinscher bitch from the pound (he was a dog warden) as one of the foundations of the Dobermann Pinscher. Jung considers the Dobermann the smooth-coated equivalent of the Giant but it is registered separately and in Germany they no longer even use the "pinscher" name. (It is the Dobermann).
Tuesday, 26 August 2014
COLLIE EYE ANOMALY
Collie EYE ANOMALY.
The Lancashire Heeler should be tested by a veterinary eye specialist at around the age of 7 weeks for CEA (collie eye anomaly). The entire litter should be tested and the results are given to the breeder.
A reputable breeder should make the results available for you to see. If a puppy tests affected for CEA it will have no bearing on its health as a pet and you should not see any difference in a pet with CEA and a pet without.
Make sure that the pups in the litter can be identified (by microchipping etc) and that the identification tallies with the result sheet. (See the microchipping page under puppy facts for more information)
If you are buying a puppy and wish to breed from it in the future, this is where you need to make sure the puppy is clear of CEA as breeding on from this pup WILL make the problem within our breed worse. We need to eradicate these kind of problems and not knowingly add to them
There is only one reason I can think of to breed from a CEA affected dog and that is to save a rare line from extinction. If the dog you want to breed from has CEA and the gene pool will not miss its genetic input type or temperament why breed from it?
My advice is... If you’re new to breeding the Lancashire Heeler why start off with any problem at all? Buy a CEA clear puppy from, if possible, a clear litter. Make sure both Dam and Sire are clear of CEA.
DON'T BE SCARED TO ASK TO SEE EYE TEST CERTIFICATES - THEY ARE IMPORTANT IF YOU WISH TO BREED.
Here is an excellent link to explain CEA and about breeding from affected and carriers.
http://va.essortment.com/collieseyeanom_rlpf.htm
I must stress most UK kennels are breeding with CEA in mind when choosing their matings, but we all still get a few litters with pups testing affected for CEA. The important thing is REPUTABLE BREEDERS will sell these puppies as pets, or request that they are not breed from and therefore take them out of the breeding pool.
It is therefore so important that you as a buyer tell us exactly what you want when purchasing a Lancashire Heeler Puppy.
Breeding from affected or carrier stock
There is now a DNA test that has become available by a lab in the USA
This changes the way I can now look at breeding, enabling more choice
in my breeding programme and enabling me to keep dogs I otherwise would
not have done, which has to be good for this breeds future for survival.
Hotpot and Doddsline have had 9 dogs tested so far and await results.
More about the test here
The Lancashire Heeler should be tested by a veterinary eye specialist at around the age of 7 weeks for CEA (collie eye anomaly). The entire litter should be tested and the results are given to the breeder.
A reputable breeder should make the results available for you to see. If a puppy tests affected for CEA it will have no bearing on its health as a pet and you should not see any difference in a pet with CEA and a pet without.
Make sure that the pups in the litter can be identified (by microchipping etc) and that the identification tallies with the result sheet. (See the microchipping page under puppy facts for more information)
If you are buying a puppy and wish to breed from it in the future, this is where you need to make sure the puppy is clear of CEA as breeding on from this pup WILL make the problem within our breed worse. We need to eradicate these kind of problems and not knowingly add to them
There is only one reason I can think of to breed from a CEA affected dog and that is to save a rare line from extinction. If the dog you want to breed from has CEA and the gene pool will not miss its genetic input type or temperament why breed from it?
My advice is... If you’re new to breeding the Lancashire Heeler why start off with any problem at all? Buy a CEA clear puppy from, if possible, a clear litter. Make sure both Dam and Sire are clear of CEA.
DON'T BE SCARED TO ASK TO SEE EYE TEST CERTIFICATES - THEY ARE IMPORTANT IF YOU WISH TO BREED.
Here is an excellent link to explain CEA and about breeding from affected and carriers.
http://va.essortment.com/collieseyeanom_rlpf.htm
I must stress most UK kennels are breeding with CEA in mind when choosing their matings, but we all still get a few litters with pups testing affected for CEA. The important thing is REPUTABLE BREEDERS will sell these puppies as pets, or request that they are not breed from and therefore take them out of the breeding pool.
It is therefore so important that you as a buyer tell us exactly what you want when purchasing a Lancashire Heeler Puppy.
Breeding from affected or carrier stock
There is now a DNA test that has become available by a lab in the USA
This changes the way I can now look at breeding, enabling more choice
in my breeding programme and enabling me to keep dogs I otherwise would
not have done, which has to be good for this breeds future for survival.
Hotpot and Doddsline have had 9 dogs tested so far and await results.
More about the test here
Wednesday, 18 June 2014
Dachshund
Country of origin: Germany.
Size: Small.
Weight: 3-5 kg.
Height: 20-30 Inches.
Color: Unicolor, Bicolor, stained, black, brown, tan.
Description: There are three varieties in this breed, long hair, short hair and wire-haired. But all three have smallish constitution, the elongated body, short legs, long snout and large floppy ears.
They are very intelligent dogs with a great capacity for learning, they are curious, dociles and very protective of their owners. They love to play with their owners but need a disciplined education to avoid problems with coexistence, plus if are socialized from an early age can have a good behavior with strangers. They enjoy being at home accompanied by their owners and are adapted to living in small spaces.
Size: Small.
Weight: 3-5 kg.
Height: 20-30 Inches.
Color: Unicolor, Bicolor, stained, black, brown, tan.
Description: There are three varieties in this breed, long hair, short hair and wire-haired. But all three have smallish constitution, the elongated body, short legs, long snout and large floppy ears.
They are very intelligent dogs with a great capacity for learning, they are curious, dociles and very protective of their owners. They love to play with their owners but need a disciplined education to avoid problems with coexistence, plus if are socialized from an early age can have a good behavior with strangers. They enjoy being at home accompanied by their owners and are adapted to living in small spaces.
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